Electronic Speed Controllers

All our cars require one of these magical devices which convert the battery power to 'motor power'. Stock racers need to have an approved item so that all racing is as competitive as possible.

Common brands/models we race with are

  • HobbyWing (Just Stock, XR10 Pro, XR10Pro stock)
  • R1
  • Reedy ( BlackBox R510,600z,1000z)
  • Tekin (RS, RS Stock, RSX)
  • SkyRC
  • Maclan

Some come with Program cars, some you have to by the card extra and some require a computer or mobile phone to program them. You probably will need to program them. We usually have program abilities for all major brands at the track, so feel free to bring it down for a tune up!

The main program option (if available) is that your ESC is in 'Blinky' mode. This refers to timing. In stock you are not allowed to run any 'electronic' timing . This is similar to the dial on your motor, but applied in addition to your motor timing and by the esc

What ever you choose, it needs to be on one of these two lists

ROAR Approved Blinky List
BRCA Approved Blinky List

If this all sounds like black magic or you're in doubt
Get in touch with us

Sensored Stock or Spec Motors

Stock racing uses specially limited or Specified motors. All the motors you can race with must be of the Sensored type (they have a special port on the back of the motor) and they need to be on one of the motor lists, just like the ESCs do.

Our Stock classes use different motors.

  • 4wd buggies use 13.5T
  • 2wd buggies use 17.5T
  • Short Course Trucks use 10.5T

Common brands/models we race with are

  • HobbyWing (G3 / G4)
  • R1
  • Fantom Icon v2/Helix
  • Maclan
  • Reedy S-Plus
  • Tekin Spec-R

Like most advanced brushless motors, these have what is called 'Can Timing', which is a dial on the back of the motor. You can turn this up to give it more acceleration. Be careful tho, as it will also increase your heat and battery usage. Beginners should leave this as it comes from the factory and work out the correct Gearing on your car before tuning the timing.

Gearing your car is a skill you learn over time. You want to run your car at its optimum speed, which means getting the fastest gearing without stressing the motor to its limit where it will get hot and be damaged.
Anyone at the track can give you some insight into the gearing you need for your car and some manufacturers give you some baseline numbers for 'Final Drive ratio' or FD/FDR.
Look in your manual for internal ratio which is usually mentioned somewhere there is a gear chart. If it is not specified, you will have to work it out from the data given in those tables, or on Google.

  • 17.5T motors are usually from 7-6
  • 13.5T motors are usually from 8-7
  • 10.5T motors are usually from 10-9
These are only a guide as motor types vary quite a bit and their sweet spots are quite different. Some motors have higher torque designs (and tend to need higher final drive ratio) where as motors which are 'Rev' motors tend to prefer lower final drives.

A neat app for your Android phone to calculate these things is the Norcal Hobbies Gear app

Most cars come with a 'mod' or 'standard' Spur gear (the big gear your motors will inteface with) and require you to buy a Pinion gear.
Stock racers usually use a smaller tooth spur which you may need to buy if it is not included in the kit. See what your manual says about spare spur options.

  • 17.5T motors usually 69-73
  • 13.5T motors usually 70-81
  • 10.5T motors usually 74-83

What ever you choose, it needs to be on one of these three lists

ROAR Approved Motor list
BRCA Approved Blinky List IFMAR Approved Blinky List

When in doubt
Get in touch with us


You guessed it, batteries also have a spec list. Nearly all cars available today use what is known as 'Shorty' batteries. 2S ir 2Cell Lipo batteries. They come in standard size, and Low Center of Gravity ( or LCG ) as well as High Voltage (HV) or with 'Graphene' magic. Racing only allows charging to 7.4v, so the HV batteries must not be charged to their full capacity of 7.6v.

Batteries also have a capacity or milli Amp Hours (mAh). Nominally shorties are around the 6000 mAh for standard size and varying sizes lower than that for LCG shorties. With the weight of chassis these days, a standard battery is more than adequate and will give you the most punch for the longest ( provided you get a reasonably new or high C rated pack. Anything over 60c rating). You can also purchase special 'Stock' or 'Spec' batteries which are designed to keep Voltage up under the stress of stock racing but can be more expensive.

Common brands/models we race with are

  • R1
  • Fantom
  • LRP
  • Reedy Zapper
  • Sunpadow
  • MuchMore Impact
  • Zombie
  • NanoTech

What ever you choose, it needs to be on one of these three lists

ROAR Approved List
BRCA Approved List IFMAR Approved List

When in doubt
Get in touch with us